Dark spots are one of the most common skin concerns we hear about — and one of the most misunderstood. Here, we break down exactly what they are, what causes them, and what a realistic, science-led approach to fading them actually looks like.
Dark spots — also called hyperpigmentation — occur when certain areas of the skin produce more melanin than usual. Melanin is the pigment responsible for your skin’s colour, and when it’s overproduced in concentrated areas, it creates patches that appear darker than the surrounding skin.
Hyperpigmentation is not a skin disease. It is not a sign that your skin is damaged beyond repair. It is, in most cases, your skin’s natural response to stress — whether that stress comes from inflammation, UV exposure, or hormonal shifts.
Understanding the type of dark spot you’re dealing with is the first step to addressing it effectively.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — commonly referred to as PIH — is the dark mark left behind after the skin has experienced some form of trauma or inflammation. It is particularly common in medium to deep skin tones, where melanin-producing cells (melanocytes) are more reactive.
PIH is not a scar. It is a pigmentation response — which means, with the right approach, it can be faded over time. For a full guide to the ingredients that work best, see what helps with dark spots and pigmentation.
Common sources of PIH include:
The key distinction: PIH sits in the upper layers of the skin (the epidermis), which makes it more responsive to topical skincare than deeper forms of pigmentation.
Every time a blemish becomes inflamed, the surrounding skin can respond by producing excess melanin. The blemish itself may clear within days — but the dark mark it leaves can linger for weeks or months without targeted care.
UV radiation is one of the most significant drivers of hyperpigmentation. Sun exposure stimulates melanin production as a protective response — and without daily SPF, existing dark spots deepen and new ones form. To understand exactly why sun protection matters so much, read our guide: Why SPF Is the Most Important Skincare Step You Might Be Skipping.
Melasma is a form of hyperpigmentation triggered by hormonal fluctuations — commonly associated with pregnancy, contraceptive use, or perimenopause. It typically appears as symmetrical patches across the cheeks, forehead, or upper lip. Melasma can be more persistent than PIH and often requires a longer-term, consistent approach.
Paradoxically, being too aggressive with your skincare can worsen hyperpigmentation. Over-exfoliating, using products that are too harsh for your skin barrier, or introducing too many actives at once can trigger inflammation — and inflammation triggers pigmentation. If you have reactive skin, see our guide to treating dark spots on sensitive skin.
This is the question most people want answered — and the honest answer is: it depends.
As a general guide:
Consistency is the single most important factor. Brightening skincare works gradually and cumulatively. Expecting visible results within two weeks is unrealistic; expecting meaningful improvement within three to six months — with the right routine — is not.
No brightening ingredient works effectively without daily sun protection. UV exposure triggers melanin production — which means every day you skip SPF, you are actively working against your brightening efforts. Our Vitamin C Day Cream SPF50 combines daily UV protection with antioxidant brightening — making it a practical, premium choice for anyone addressing hyperpigmentation.
Derived from fungi during the fermentation of rice, kojic acid inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase — which is responsible for melanin production. It is one of the most well-researched brightening ingredients available and works particularly well for PIH and sun-induced dark spots.
A stable, skin-compatible derivative of hydroquinone, alpha arbutin works by slowly releasing hydroquinone into the skin — inhibiting melanin synthesis without the irritation associated with hydroquinone itself. It is suitable for all skin tones and works well alongside other brightening actives.
Niacinamide does not inhibit melanin production directly — instead, it interrupts the transfer of melanin to the skin’s surface cells. The result is a gradual, visible brightening effect alongside improvements in skin texture, pore appearance, and barrier function.
Vitamin C is both an antioxidant and a brightening agent. It neutralises free radical damage caused by UV exposure, inhibits tyrosinase activity, and supports collagen synthesis. For best results, use a stable, well-formulated Vitamin C in the morning, followed by SPF. Explore our Dark Spots & Pigmentation collection to see how these ingredients are combined in our formulations.
For those seeking a more advanced approach to pigmentation, exosome technology offers a complementary layer of support. Exosomes help to regulate the cellular signals that trigger melanin overproduction — working alongside traditional brightening ingredients for a more comprehensive result. Learn more: Exosome Skincare: What It Is, How It Works, and Why It Matters.
Key principles:
PIH and sun-induced dark spots can fade significantly with consistent care — in many cases to the point where they are no longer visible. Melasma is more complex and may require ongoing maintenance. No topical product can guarantee permanent removal, but meaningful, lasting improvement is achievable.
Yes — with care. Ingredients like niacinamide, alpha arbutin, and kojic acid are well-tolerated across all skin tones. Avoid high-concentration acids or aggressive treatments that can cause irritation, which may worsen PIH in deeper skin tones.
Yes. Despite older advice suggesting otherwise, modern research confirms that Vitamin C and niacinamide can be used together without issue. Many people apply niacinamide in the evening and Vitamin C in the morning for a complementary approach.
PIH typically appears at the site of a previous blemish or injury and has a more defined border. Melasma tends to appear symmetrically across the face — particularly the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip — and is often linked to hormonal changes. If you are unsure, a consultation with a dermatologist is always worthwhile.
Yes — retinol accelerates cell turnover and interrupts melanin transfer, making it a useful addition to a brightening routine once your skin has adjusted to it. Read our beginner’s guide: Retinol 101: How to Start Safely Without Irritation.
For adequate protection, a dedicated SPF product is recommended. Moisturisers with SPF are rarely applied in sufficient quantities to deliver the stated protection factor. A standalone SPF50, applied as the final step of your morning routine, offers more reliable coverage.
For a full comparison of the top serums available in the UK, see our guide to the best dark spot serums.
